Garment



D. C. COLLIER AND F. M. MURPHY. GARMENT.

I v APPLICATIDN FILED FEB- 9. 1921. 1,404,273...

Patented Jan. 24,1922

MUM,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DURWARD GUTHBERT COLLIER- AND FLOYD MILLEDGE MURPHY, F BARNESVILLE,

GEORGIA, ASSIGNORS TO COLLIER MILLS, INQ, OF BARNESVILLE, GEORGIA, A COR- IORATION OF GEORGIA.

GARMENT.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Jan 24 1922 Application filed February 9, 1921. Serial No. 443,588.

To all whom it may concern 7 Be it known thatvwe DURlV'ARD (COLLIER and FLOYD M. MURPHY, citizens of the United States and residing at Barnesville, Pike county, State of Georgia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to knit underwear or union suits for the use of women, and has among as objects and advantages simplicity'of construction contributing to the ease of manufactureand low cost of production, asaving of the material from which they are made by avoiding waste scraps of the material by reason of the shape and manner of cutting from the original fabric the'parts going to make up the garment, and greatly increased ease and comfort to the wearer due tothe structural arrangement and connectionjof the parts making it specially adapted to the different conditions of use.

' be inserted at the rear extending down the legs and the way ofcutting them.

. Figure 3 shows one of two identical smaller gussets or insertions for the front extending down the leg.

Figure 4 is a. front view of the garment completed, and V v 1 Flgure 5 1s a rear view of the garment.

.The main body of the garmentis made from tubular knitted fabric which -is cut across at proper points for the neck portion and the lower ends ofthe legs. As'shown in Figure 1 thetube section when lying flat is cut inwardly from the margins on curved lines to form arm holes and 11 and between their upper inner edges the end material is cut away on a curve12 of larger diameter to form the neck opening between,

and as illustratedin Figure t a continuous binding strip '13 isfattached to the edges forming the arm holes andhaving-a connecting portion between the upper inner edges ofthe. arm holes forming a part of the shoulder straps-1 1. Another continuous binding strip 15 is secured itioundthemar gin of the neck opening and extends upwardly at the arm openings with and secured to the strips 13 forming part of the shoulder straps 14. At its lower end the tubular section. 16 is out on the side which forms the rear part of the garment 011 a 1011- gitudinal central line from the bottom to the point 17, and the opposite part which forms the front of the garment iscut'on a s milar line terminating at 18 the proper distance below 17 and nearer the a lower edge. This leaves the lower depending sect ons 19 and 20 which with the gussets'or inserts to bedescribed form the legs of the garment.

The two main gussets or inserts which in cooperation with parts 19 and 20 aid in forming the legs, are made as shown in Figure 2 by the use of a rectangular piece of textile fabric similar to that of the tubular section 16 but of greater length than width cut diagonally or at an angle to the sides from the point 21 at one end to the point 22 at the other end. The point 21 is a distance from the side 24 equal to that of the point 22 from the side 23, and thus there is produced two identical gussets 25 and 26 adapted for use in forming the legs with no loss of material or scrap waste. These gussets as will be seen in Figure 2 have the straight sides 23 and 24 and the inclined sides 27 and 28 cut on the bias and somewhat longer than sides 23' and 24, the narrow transverse ends 29, 30,- and the wider ends 31, 32. In forming the legs an additional or supplemental gusset 33 of similar textile fabric shown in Figure 3 is used in each leg and since they are identical only one is shown in this figure. It has a longitudinal straight side 34: and on the other side is cut to taper'from the point 35 on one side to a sharp angular end or point 36, and on the other side to a short. transverse end edge 37.

As shown in Figure 5 in assembling the parts the gusset 25 is placed on the main body of the garment with the upper end of the straight side 23 at the point 17 where the vertical slot in the fabric ends and the hort end 29 is stitched to the outer face of the fabric transversely; v The straight 23 is then connected to the free edge 38 of the. garment (see Figure 1) from the point 17 to'the lower end of the leg portion 19. The lower, wider inner part 0 gusset 25 is 110 then folded in under the part attached to edge 38 and its lower inner point, shown at 21in Figure 2, is secured tothe lower inner point of the edge 39, Figure 1, on the front portion of the folded part or leg 19 as shown v in dotted'lines in Figure 4/ This adds the width ofthe end 31.0f gusset 25 to the lower edge ofthe leg part 19in forming the final leg opening atthe bottom and'this gives, ample room. S nce however th1s gusset tapers upwardly and becomes narrower it is necessary to provide other'means to securea leg opening of proper size above the lower end. Forthis purpose and to secure another function later described, the gusset 33'is secured along its straight sides'34c to the front edge 39 of the leg portion 19 from the mp1s: to a point 36 near the lower edge 0f the leg portion as shown'in Figure 4, the

length of the edge 34: corresponding to that of the edge 39. The edge of "33 from its point 36 to the point 35 is secured to the edge 27 of gusset 25 from 36 near its lower tip end,"Figure 4;, thus closing the sides of and completing the leg from its lower end to a point somewhat less than halfway to the point-118'." The upper straight end 37 of 'gus-.

set 33'i's secured to the edge 40 of the front fold of the leg section 20; from point 18 downwardly. The gusset 2 6 and the other "gusset corresponding to 33 are applied in a similar'way to the other leg of the garment and'further description is unnecessary. It will-be noted, however, that as shown in dotted lines in Figure 5, the gusset 26' at its upper end 3 0 passes under gusset 25 and that from its straight edge corner it is secured to thebody-on the same line as the edge 29 but on the opposite side of the point 17 and to fthe inner surface of the body and that the twof'gussets thusoverlap normally closing the rear opening of the garment but having free margins from 17 to the point 35 permitting them to be pulled to the sides at the rear.

The gussets 33 also'overlap in front,

the upper end 37 of one being under the upper endof the otherand being secured respectively to the edges 39 and 40011 opposite sides of point '18. from 18 to 35. of the inserted gussets 33 compensatefor the gu'pward taper of gussets 25'and 26 in making They have free-edges The lower tapered portions th'eupp'e'r portion of the legs of suflicient 'fortable on the a It'will be observed that the few pieces of size to adapt the garmentto lit and be comwearer.

fabr'io iused' are such simple easily made forms asjto contribute greatlytoa saving of time and labor in making them and secur- 5.1

'ing them together while at the same time *regtthefwaste of material in thecutting to a minimum. p will be 'observed' that the gussets or inserts 33 shown in Fi side 'of full': length and 3 have one straight that the other side is formed by two outs similarly inclined from the opposite ends to a point at the center and it will thus be clear thata series of i these gussets'may be 'cut from a straight Sided strip having a width equal to" that of the gusset at its widest point without a waste ofmaterial and that this is trueof-a strip which in'width is any multiple of the width of the gusset. The only possible waste is the small tip end cut away at 37 Notwithstanding the simplicity of the parts andtheir connectionthey make it easy to produce a garment proportioned and adapted for the greatest comfort of the wearer and one adapted for easy and satisfactory adjustment; 7

Having thus described my inventiomwhat is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is '1. Agarmentof the classdescribed, comprising a body portion .of tubular fabric severed: on a central longitudinal line-from the lower end upward for a fixed distance to form leg portions, two similar gussets '7 havingstraight sides and endsgone of the sides being at right angles to the ends and the other inclined, the narrow ends of said gussets being secured to the bodyfabricat the rear at opposite sides of the severed line at the top, one being secured to the inner and the other to the outer face of the fabric whereby they overlap. and their lower ends extending down the' leg portions and se cured along their inner margins to the rear 'margin of the leg portion on 'theopposite side of the rear line of severance'and a; pair of supplemental 'gussets corresponding to each otheri in 'shape I and "each 1 having; a

straight side but inclined portions on the epp'osite side comingIt'o" a point at one end,

straight side is secured whereby these gus-' sets overlap." V V 7 2. A garment of the class described, comprising a body 1 portion off-"tubular fabric severed on a; central longitudinal linegfrom thelower end upward fora fixed distance to form leg portions, the out at the rear extending to a considerably -higher point than that at the front, two simi ar gussets having straight sides and ends, one of the sides being at right angles'tothe' ends and the other inclined, the narrow ends of said gussets being secured'to the body fabric at the rear at opposite sides? of the severed 7 line atithe top, onebeing secured tothe inner and the'other'to the outer face of the fabric whereby theyoverl'ap "and their-lower ends extending down to the lower end of the leg portions and secured along their inner margins to the rear margin of the leg portlon on .the opposite side of the rear line ofseverance and a pair of supplemental gussets c0r responding to each other in shape and each having a straight side but inclined portions on the opposite side coming to a point at one end, the straight side being secured to the front edge of the leg portion to its lower end and the other side of the tapered portion 

